07.12.2020.
Degarra and Fiolić From Zadar: the Entry Into the World of Premium Winemakers
Until the middle of the last century, the boundaries of Zadar city were not greater than its current narrowest centre - the peninsula. Fields, vegetable gardens and, in particular, vineyards were lined up around that wider urban area. They were cultivated by their owners, domicile inhabitants of suburban areas, still rural at the time - Diklo, Bokanjac, Stanovi, Crno, Arbanasi, but also, which is especially interesting, residents of some villages from Ugljan, the nearest island to Zadar. The islanders were the owners of arable land in the areas of Puntamika and Borik, at present the most attractive tourist parts of Zadar. This is the story of how small garage winemakers made it in the world of premium wines, and won the hearts of wine admirers and prestigious awards with their quality.
Zadar spread across the former vineyards, but Zadar's passion for wine remained
For the past 70 years, Zadar has been expanding intensively in these former fields and vineyards and new city districts have developed. Former suburban villages then became a part of Zadar. Their inhabitants were partly still engaged in agriculture, and especially in viticulture, but only for their own needs. Despite the fact that the City “chased” the vineyards “away”, the culture of wine was still alive - wine as food, passion, consolation and hedonism.
However, more serious grape growing and wine production retreated to the hinterland of Zadar, Ravni kotari. It was in this area that the revival of agro cultures, olive growing and, especially, winemaking began a little more than 20 years ago. New vineyards were planted, cellarmen and winemakers adopted new knowledge, and top wines produced from grapes from the immediate vicinity of Zadar, arrived in Zadar. That is why in Zadar itself, the cult of wine production has crept in again as a hobby activity and only for their own needs.
With such modest ambitions, the founders and owners of two Zadar boutique wineries set out into the world of wine. The quality, production and presentation of their wines made them rise above the standards of amateur winemakers from the initial modest and discreet garage production.
The story of small garage winemakers becoming sought-after and great
It is the story of two wineries - "Degarra", owned by Mate Pestić and Dane Šulentić in the Zadar area of Bokanjac, and "Fiolić" owned by brothers Mario and Dario Fiolić in Borik. Both wineries have gone through similar paths of development, marked by the fact that due to their premium quality, their wines were quickly sought after on the market, in Zadar and beyond, from the initial production in modest quantities. Their present annual production has reached tens of thousands of bottles a year. Another similarity they share is that the owners of "Degarra" and “Fiolić” have arranged charming, pleasant presentation spaces, wine shops and tasting areas where their wines can not only be bought, but tasted beforehand, while hearing the story in great detail and passion about the origin of each of their wines.
Interestingly, the famous French grape varieties such as merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah thrive in the vineyards of Zadar hinterland, so the "Degarra" cuvée of these varieties, called "Bontera", is right at the top of best Croatian red wines and their most sought-after product, and which always goes well with any serious culinary pleasure. Pestić and Šulentić, together with spouse Dragana Šulentić, an oenologist, have their own vineyards, but they procure some of the produce from other winegrowers, so they decided to produce wines, sparkling wines and rosé from a Croatian variety plavina. “Degarra’s” white wine variety pošip has absolutely won the market and many competitions. It is one of the most famous Dalmatian grape varieties that is more present in the vineyards in the south of Croatia, but with "Degarra" wine, it gained a new and different value here and now in the north of Dalmatia.
"Degarra's" maraška cherry wine?!
The specialty of the "Degarra" winery is a dessert wine "Bomary" - a coupage of "Bontera" and, lo and behold, maraška cherry wines, a fruit characteristic for Zadar region from which the well-known Maraschino liqueur is produced. "Degarra" offers a total of seven wine labels ornamented with the characteristic three circles, with inscripted words: passion, desire, devotion, labour, admiration, pleasure, ecstasy. As a sign of deep respect and remembrance of his grandfather, Mate Pestić also produces maraština wine, another original and old Croatian variety.
Sea liqueurs by the Fiolić brothers
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