Zadar Rabbit Goulash at Berekin Tavern

Hunting is one of the oldest human activities, which matured in the Old Stone Age, and persisted in all periods of human civilization, even when the search for wild animals and their shooting was not necessary for human consumption or survival. Of course, the gastronomic delights provided by game dishes were crucial in the persistence of this activity. Hunting has become a privilege of the rich in some parts of Europe, including Zadar and its region, and even today we associate game dishes with noble and wealthy feasts. In reality today, this is no longer the case, because hunters and their associations are more concerned with environmental protection, in their case hunting grounds, and indigenous, transient and imported game.

Hunting Tourism

The area of Zadar County is almost entirely divided into hunting grounds cared for by hunting associations, cooperatives and companies, and in Zadar there is one of the oldest hunting societies in Croatia, Hunting Society "Diana", which has been active for over 114 years. One of the interesting things from the work of this society is that the "Diana" hunters were among the first in Croatia to start with hunting tourism in the early 70s of the last century, when Italian hunters began training their birds and hounds here, of course with the help in the organization of local hunters. Even today, this type of tourism has lasted discreetly but seriously, so hunting dog competitions are being held in the immediate vicinity of Zadar. Hunters are always welcome guests in Zadar, combining their hobby - hunting, with tourist excursions and the local offer in the colder, more unattractive part of the year for most tourists.

Just as hunting and related activities in the Zadar area have survived, so have game dishes remained on our tables, according to centuries-old recipes. Even young and creative chefs do not dare to indulge in modern alternative forms of dishes made from these ingredients, because the inherited recipes are simply amazing. Although today in Zadar it is possible to obtain several types of high game meat from central Croatia hunting grounds, only one type of this meat occupies a special, distinct place, so even dishes from other game sorts are prepared in the same Dalmatian way we prepare this favourite food from nature. And that is rabbit meat.

Why Is the Dalmatian Rabbit Tastier Than Its European Cousins?

Although the wild rabbit that roams freely in many habitats in Dalmatia and Zadar hinterland, and even in the meadows of the suburbs, the same European rabbit that is spread throughout the continent, gastronomically speaking, the meat of our Dalmatian rabbit is tastier, more supple, softer… The reason is simple - its diet. The wild rabbit is a herbivore, and it feeds on plants that are available to it in the relatively narrow habitat in which it resides (in no more than two square kilometres). The abundance, variety and aroma of Dalmatian plants, as well as the fact that the rabbit likes to lick salt from the grass, and salt in this area, even in Zadar hinterland is not lacking, due to the coastal environment, and strong winds like the bora, makes rabbit meat in Dalmatia tastier than elsewhere.

After all, rabbit got the champion status in the local gastronomy also because this long-eared ruler of Dalmatian pastures is the most important game of this region. Other indigenous hunting prey are birds such as quail, partridge, snipe and wild pigeon (which should definitely be tasted if the opportunity arises), and imported pheasants that have lived here for a long time, and mouflons and fallow deer that have been inhabited in the hunting grounds of Zadar islands in the last several decades. Wild boar is not uncommon in these areas either, but groups of these mammals arrived here alone, due to what is believed to be the climate change of the 80s of the last century.

The most common and, according to many, the best way to prepare a rabbit is the Dalmatian way or the huntsman rabbit. It is a type of goulash that is prepared for a relatively long time because it includes long soaking of rabbit in a specially prepared marinade. What gives this dish of all rabbit’s meaty pieces a specific value and full sweet-sour taste is a combination of the most important gastronomic symbols of Dalmatia and Mediterranean cuisine in general: olive oil, red wine and Mediterranean aromatic herbs, rosemary and laurel. Shrubs of these fragrant plants are a common part of backyards in Zadar.

Mrs Ika’s Little Secrets at the “Berekin” Tavern

There is a small but ancient secret about the preparation of the huntsman rabbit, revealed to us by Zadar native Mrs Ika Nekić, who runs the kitchen of one of the best taverns in Zadar, "Berekin" Tavern, owned by her son Marko Nekić. In 2020 "Berekin" Tavern was not only among the best, but it was chosen as the best tavern in Zadar according to the traditional annual choice by the Zadar Tourist Board, and was awarded with the "Smiling Sun" plaque. "Berekin" is located high above the centre of Zadar, on the hill called Bili brig, discreetly hidden along the Zadar bypass, Hrvatski Sabor Street. This location provides their visitors with perhaps the best view of Zadar, with the city "in the palm of your hand" as well as the wider Zadar channel and the nearby islands.

Nekić and his team of associates have found their own way in the catering business: one business line is catering, so they are present with their meals and services at many banquets and parties in Zadar and the surrounding area. They prepare a larger amount of ready meals, hot meals (brunches, or the so-called marende) for several Zadar companies on a daily basis. The second line of work is the tavern itself with about a hundred seats, which is not a classic a la carte restaurant, but a place for smaller and larger groups of guests who will gather for various occasions: weddings, baptisms, birthdays and other celebrations or just friendly gatherings with good food and wine by winemakers from Zadar region. When booking a table at the always full "Berekin", the sequence of dishes is agreed upon, and at "Berekin" they are ready to prepare everything the guest wants, although the main specialties of the tavern are meat dishes either grilled or spit-roasted, and dishes baked under the baking lid (peka), all prepared in two large brick ovens in the kitchen. They even bake bread for their guests under the baking lid. Young Nekić says that he firmly sticks to traditional dishes and that he does not want the so-called industrial catering at his restaurant.

At "Berekin", mother Ika and chef Mario Palčić are in charge of preparing the huntsman rabbit. Before they start cooking, or more precisely sautéing a large amount of red onion (kapula) in olive oil as the base of a rich sauce, pieces of rabbit meat were soaked all night in a marinade of water, red wine, wine vinegar (kvasina), red onion, garlic, bay leaf, rosemary, salt and pepper. In the morning, Ika placed the drained meat on stewed red onions, added garlic, bay leaf and rosemary, covered it and cooked it over low heat for a long time for meat to soften and release the aromas and juices. Occasionally, Mario would add a little meat stock. And now comes the little secret, by which the fullness of taste and the characteristic dark colour of the dish are achieved: when skinning the rabbit and cutting off the intestines, it is necessary to preserve the drained blood, liver and heart and then, halfway through the cooking, insert these ingredients into the pot. This addition to the recipe, as well as adding olive oil, is used in the preparation of this dish in some other parts of Dalmatia, not elsewhere, so this recipe is originally from Zadar.

A Unique Goulash and "Zadar in the Palm of Your Hand"

Towards the end of cooking, Mrs Ika poured a few decilitres of good red wine, a few drops of homemade red wine vinegar (kvasina) and added a small amount of tomato concentrate. The taste can be additionally balanced with something sweet, maybe half a spoon of honey or homemade jam, and of course, by adding salt and pepper. The final touch of this Dalmatian dish is a spurt of extra virgin olive oil at the very moment the dish stops cooking.

While Mrs Nekić was finishing this traditional, and yet completely different goulash from tender rabbit, Mario Palčić kneaded and cooked Dalmatian gnocchi from flour, potatoes, lard and eggs. Gnocchi are an almost mandatory side dish to the huntsman rabbit (or Dalmatian or Zadar, whichever), although polenta or pasta can also be served.

If you are lucky enough to find yourself in Zadar in late autumn or early winter, because the hunting period of the wild Dalmatian rabbit is so short, do not miss the opportunity to enjoy this "black goulash with a secret" at "Berekin" Tavern while holding “Zadar in the palm of your hand”. And if that were to happen at sunset, the experience would be complete and unforgettable.